Food and Drink 2023

VIENNA

For coffee in Austria always try to get Julius Meinl. That is the coffee I had Cafe Tirolerhof, Führichgasse 8 in Vienna, and it was the best cappuccino I have ever had. I went there for coffee and crepes filled with apricot compote rather than the very touristy Hotel Sacher, famed for its Sachertorte, and it's only a 3 minute walk from Cafe Tirolerhof.

Demel, the famous cafe in the centre of Vienna. I had apple strudel and cappuccino, both very good. Location: Kohlmarkt 14

I did a Vienna Cellar Tour provided by Wein Mal Anders who are also associated with the Hass & Haas store. Surprisingly, there are deep cellars beneath many wine stores and restaurants in Vienna. The three I visited had either brick or stone vaulting and were 2 or 3 stories underground. One was fairly dry and another fairly damp. The one was quite large, having not only a vast collection of stored wine but also a room of stacked cages in which customers used for their private wine collections. There was an area with tables and seating where the customer could open and enjoy their wine.

One of the wine cellars we visited was Haas & Haas Wine & Delicatessen, Ertlgasse 4 (that also sells cider). Another wine cellar was wineBANK, Grünangergasse 8.

The wines I was particularly trying to sample were the uniquely Viennese "Gemischter Satz" which, in contrast to modern cuvée wines that emphasis a single grape, are made from up to 20 different varieties. And all these varieties may be planted in the same vineyard!

wineBANK, Vienna cellar

On my next trip I need to go to Café Central for the great pastries. They accept reservations but you can just drop in because of the quick turnaround of guests. They seem to stress reservations for groups. (I wanted to go back there as the one I went to in the '80s and mistakenly thought it was Sacher.) And also go again to Demel for the ambiance and strudel.

I want to try some of the ones I didn't get to in 2023, especially Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Staße 213 (Take D line to Sickenberggasse stop) noted for its Vineyards; Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger, Cobenzlgasse 34 (Take U4 toward Heilingenstat to Heilingenstat, then 38A bus toward Kahlenberg to Oberer Reisenbergweg) noted for its beauty; and Weingut Göbel, Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131 noted for its innovative cuisine and high quality white and red wines.

I tried Edlmoser Heuriger (voted the #1 heuriger in Vienna) and Mayer am Pfarrplatz (the oldest heuriger in Vienna – 1683!) Both were excellent and worth a second visit.

Mayer am Pfarrplatz

Mayer Maki at Mayer am Pfarrplatz

An unusual Austrian-Japanese fusion: Mayer Maki made of rice, cream cheese, Austrin prosciutto, pork, red pepper, crushed nuts and Asmonte (a strong, hard Austrian cheese).

Edlmoser Heuriger

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Café-Restaurant at the Kunsthistorisches Museum

For a great breakfast/brunch, book a seat in the opulent and iconic café in the equally iconic Kunsthistorisches Museum, Maria-Theresien-Platz. Order the Kunstvoller Start (Artful Daybreak) and enjoy a full breakfast. This comes with a poached egg, ham, smoked salmon, fruit bowl, yoghurt with granola and honey, cheese selection, chickpea spread, apricot jam, honey, and a variety of breads.

Although they suggest booking a table, I was there at a slow period and was immediately seated.

A view of the restaurant from above: