Austria Trip

For my next trip to Austria I want to see and try a few things, some new and some familiar sites I want to revisit.

Getting there: Take the City Airport Train (CAT) to Vienna city centre. Note that that train is separate from the city app metro pass. You must buy the ticket from the machine at the airport or at the train terminal. Cost €14.90 one-way or €24.90 return in 2025. The trip takes 16 minutes. CAT schedule (every 30 minutes): From airport - first 06:08, last 23:38 From city centre - first 05:37, last 23:07

VIENNA

SITES

Must visit The Third Man museum that Nina of the Rick Steves tour told me about. Open Saturdays only 14:00-18:00. Located at Pressgasse 25, Vienna near the Naschmarkt (Ubahn stop Kettenbruckengasse, U4 line). Check if the tour of the sewers is still being done. There is a Third Man tour that runs from Thursday to Sunday, May to October. English tours start at 15:00 only. The meeting point is Karlsplatz-Girardipark (opposite the Café Museum), and the metro stop is Karlsplatz on U1, U2 & U4 lines. The Visiting Vienna website shows the various locations from the movie that can be visited like the Westbahnhof and Harry Lime’s apartment (actually the Palais Pallavicini in Josephsplatz Square). I have already been to the Weiner Riesenrad – Ferris wheel. You can even take a tour of the sewers, entering through the entrance that Harry uses in the movie.

Get the Vienna City Card to save on transportation and entrance to over 100 attractions (discounts vary). Available for 24/48/72 hour or 7 days.

Take a Danube River cruise; here is one listed on GYG. Also try an historic city walk or food tour, see Tripadvisor or Get Your Guide.

Palais Pallavicini

FOOD & DRINK

Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, is my favorite café – great apple strudel and Sachertorte, but next time try their Kaiserschmarrn - it looked very good. See the article on the many cafés to visit in Vienna. Café Central, Herrengasse 14, is famous for the great pastries, but I have never been there because the lines are always too long.

Stop into Haas & Haas Wien & Feinkost to get a bottle of Die Apfelkönig von Maximilian Preiss. Located at the corner of Kramergasse & Ertlgasse near Stephansplatz. 

Of course, I must again stop at Buffet Trześniewski, Dorotheergasse 1, Vienna (Stephansplatz) for lunch to have their delicious open face sandwiches. Or at one of their other 13 locations in the city and one at the airport.

I could try another winery tour. City & Wine offers countryside tours near Vienna that include dinner - 5 hours for €140. They also offer tours near Budapest.

I have business card from Ofenloch, a restaurant that serves classic Austrian food. Location: Kurrentgasse 8, about a 6 minute walk from Stephansplatz. Ph: 01/5338844

The Naschmarkt for multiple market stalls selling many varieties of food and drink. See my page here.

I may go back to the Julius Meinl store for more coffee and coffee cups.

A few of heurigers I didn't get to last time:

• Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Staße 213 (Take D line to Sickenberggasse stop). Noted for its Vineyards
• Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger, Cobenzlgasse 34 (Take U4 toward Heilingenstat to Heilingenstat, then 38A bus toward Kahlenberg to Oberer Reisenbergweg). Noted for its beauty
• Weingut Göbel, Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131. Noted for its innovative cuisine and high quality white and red wines.

See my 2023 Food & Drink notes of eating places I have tried.

City & Wine Vienna

City & Wine Budapest

ACCOMMODATIONS

I need to find a good boutique hotel near a tram stop or close to the Opera area.

Hotel Post Wien, is okay, but there is no mini bar frig and no coffee or tea making setup in the rooms. Try Boutique Hotel Donauwalzer.

Weiner Riesenrad – Ferris wheel (The Third Man)

Vienna Restaurants & Cafés

Besides the coffee houses and heurigers for which Vienna is noted, they have many other excellent eating places. The Naschmarkt is one place to go as I note here.

Ofenloch Restaurant, Kurrentgasse 8, looks interesting. I don't remember eating there but I have their business card.

Had a very nice meal at Entler, Schlüsselgasse 2. Starter was a ravioli with nettles and a light, smooth cheese sauce. Main was a pork loin with white asparagus and hollandaise.

Haas & Haas, Ertigasse 4, for excellent Austrian sparkling ciders.

Royal Caviar Vienna, Tiefer Graben 10 (about 2 blocks from Café Central).

Buffet Trześniewski -  for a large variety (29) of cheap and tasty sandwiches. A must visit for lunch in Vienna. There are three locations: Dorotheergasse 1 ; Mariahilfer Str. 95 & at the Westbahnhof. The Dorotheergasse location (where I usually go) is near Stephansplatz. (See menu here)

Trzesniewski display case

Trześniewski menu card

Had a good lunch of fried calamari at a small restaurant called Joyce Café & Restaurant, Wipplingerstasse 11, Vienna.

From Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, he visits some of the best restaurants and pubs that locals favour.

Here are a few he tried and enjoyed:

Urbanek, Naschmarkt 46, sells the best ham in Austria – "Mangalitsa ham is a whole, boneless, dry-cured ham that offers layers of clean, light and fatty tastes. It is made from the Mangalitsa (aka Mangalica) hog, a breed of Hungarian domestic pig.... Mangalitsa ham is often enjoyed with cheese and wine in Vienna."

Mangalitsa ham

Herta Gruber, Naschmarkt 47, sells their specialite: Schnitzel cordon bleu,a dish made of pounded meat (veal or pork) layered with ham and cheese. The whole thing is then breaded and fried.

Schnitzel cordon bleu

Weingut & Heuriger Zahel, Maurer Hauptplatz 9, make a dish of roast pork made from boneless pork shoulder (or “butt”). It is often called Schopfbraten. Perhaps the most popular form is the Wiener Kümmel-Schopfbraten, or old Viennese-style caraway roast pork. Weingut & Heuriger Zahel have their own version of Schopfbraten, which they call Krampus. See their menu here.

Schopfbraten

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I have visited Café Tirolerhof and Demel, two well known cafés in Vienna. Two other well known cafés are Café Sacher Wien and Café Central, but there are number of high quality cafés to consider.

Visiting Vienna has a good selection of cafés in Vienna: Café Hawelka, Café Sperl, Café Goldegg, Café Prückel, Café Schwarzenberg, Café Mozart, Café Ritter, Café Jelinek, Café Schopenhauer, Café Landtmann, Café Korb, Café Museum, Café Frauenhuber, Café Diglas Wollzeile, Café Diglas im Schottenstift, Café Diglas am Fleischmarkt, Kaffee Alt Wien, and Café Westend.

Naschmarkt, Vienna

Not to be missed when visiting Vienna is the Naschmarkt which, as the name suggests, is a large market with lots of stalls selling tasty treats.

From their website:
"Naschmarkt in Vienna is always a treat to visit with the rows of open stalls selling food to take away, snacks to eat, and full sit-down meals. All under the roofs of the small stalls that have been in this place for over a 100 years."

The area also becomes a flea market on weekends. More information on the Naschmarkt here.

Food and Drink 2023

VIENNA

For coffee in Austria always try to get Julius Meinl. That is the coffee I had Cafe Tirolerhof, Führichgasse 8 in Vienna, and it was the best cappuccino I have ever had. I went there for coffee and crepes filled with apricot compote rather than the very touristy Hotel Sacher, famed for its Sachertorte, and it's only a 3 minute walk from Cafe Tirolerhof.

Demel, the famous cafe in the centre of Vienna. I had apple strudel and cappuccino, both very good. Location: Kohlmarkt 14

I did a Vienna Cellar Tour provided by Wein Mal Anders who are also associated with the Hass & Haas store. Surprisingly, there are deep cellars beneath many wine stores and restaurants in Vienna. The three I visited had either brick or stone vaulting and were 2 or 3 stories underground. One was fairly dry and another fairly damp. The one was quite large, having not only a vast collection of stored wine but also a room of stacked cages in which customers used for their private wine collections. There was an area with tables and seating where the customer could open and enjoy their wine.

One of the wine cellars we visited was Haas & Haas Wine & Delicatessen, Ertlgasse 4 (that also sells cider). Another wine cellar was wineBANK, Grünangergasse 8.

The wines I was particularly trying to sample were the uniquely Viennese "Gemischter Satz" which, in contrast to modern cuvée wines that emphasis a single grape, are made from up to 20 different varieties. And all these varieties may be planted in the same vineyard!

wineBANK, Vienna cellar

On my next trip I need to go to Café Central for the great pastries. They accept reservations but you can just drop in because of the quick turnaround of guests. They seem to stress reservations for groups. (I wanted to go back there as the one I went to in the '80s and mistakenly thought it was Sacher.) And also go again to Demel for the ambiance and strudel.

I want to try some of the ones I didn't get to in 2023, especially Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Staße 213 (Take D line to Sickenberggasse stop) noted for its Vineyards; Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger, Cobenzlgasse 34 (Take U4 toward Heilingenstat to Heilingenstat, then 38A bus toward Kahlenberg to Oberer Reisenbergweg) noted for its beauty; and Weingut Göbel, Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131 noted for its innovative cuisine and high quality white and red wines.

I tried Edlmoser Heuriger (voted the #1 heuriger in Vienna) and Mayer am Pfarrplatz (the oldest heuriger in Vienna – 1683!) Both were excellent and worth a second visit.

Mayer am Pfarrplatz

Mayer Maki at Mayer am Pfarrplatz

An unusual Austrian-Japanese fusion: Mayer Maki made of rice, cream cheese, Austrin prosciutto, pork, red pepper, crushed nuts and Asmonte (a strong, hard Austrian cheese).

Edlmoser Heuriger

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Café-Restaurant at the Kunsthistorisches Museum

For a great breakfast/brunch, book a seat in the opulent and iconic café in the equally iconic Kunsthistorisches Museum, Maria-Theresien-Platz. Order the Kunstvoller Start (Artful Daybreak) and enjoy a full breakfast. This comes with a poached egg, ham, smoked salmon, fruit bowl, yoghurt with granola and honey, cheese selection, chickpea spread, apricot jam, honey, and a variety of breads.

Although they suggest booking a table, I was there at a slow period and was immediately seated.

A view of the restaurant from above:

Heurigers

Best Heurigers in Vienna – Complete Guide to the Wine Taverns in Vienna
The Vienna Blog February 28, 2023

What are Vienna’s Top Heurigen locations:
Oberlaa, Ottakring, Hernals, Neustift, Heiligenstadt, Sievering, Grinzing, Nussdorf, Stammersdorf, Strebersdorf, Jedlersdorf, Wall, Bisamberg.

How to get to the Heurigen in Vienna:
The #38 tram drops you in the heart of Grinzing, or the #60 to Rodaun which will end up within a ten minute walking distance to some smaller local Heuriger.

What wine to order at the Heuriger in Vienna?
Gemischter Satz wine. The Gemischter Satz is a wine specialty made from up to twenty white or red grape varieties with different ripening times and different degrees of acidity, which are planted in the vineyard and harvested, pressed, and fermented together. It’s a unique, easy-drinking white wine that is only available in Vienna.

What food to order at the Heuriger in Vienna?
A classic Heurigen buffet features local sausages and cheeses, pickled vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, butter, nuts, fruit, bread, and pastries.

HERE IS THE LIST OF THE BEST HEURIGER IN VIENNA

Mayer am Pfarrplatz
There are numerous Heurigen (wine taverns) in Vienna, but the most well-known is probably the traditional winery “Mayer am Pfarrplatz”. Since 1683, Nussdorf has been pressed here in Heiligenstadt. Ludwig van Beethoven lived in the house, which is now a listed building, in 1817 and worked on his 9th symphony.
Food & Wine Highlights: The inner courtyard is overgrown with Virginia creeper, and traditional dishes and seasonal snacks tempt you in the cozy lounges. In the evening Heurigen musicians play.
Address: Mayer am Pfarrberg, Pfarrplatz 2, 1190 Vienna   Website: pfarrplatz.at

Mayer am Nussberg
Mayer am Nussberg’s wine tavern is surrounded by vineyards and offers a wonderful view of Vienna.
Highlights: There is an area with sun loungers for relaxation. The guests sit in the middle of the green in vineyards on simple wooden benches and enjoy pure nature.
Food & Wine Highlights: Typical cold snacks are served with the Heuriger.
Address: Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Str. 213, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.mayeramnussberg.at

Edlmoser Heuriger
The Edlmoser winery was voted the best Heuriger in Vienna again this year. Since the summer of 2010, you can linger here in the beautiful guest garden. “Good food & Drink” is the motto here. Classic Viennese cuisine and fine Viennese wines from the winery can be enjoyed in the old winegrower’s house.
Address: Edlmoser Heuriger, Maurer-Lange-Gasse 123, 1230 Vienna   Website: edlmoser.at

Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger
The district of Grinzing is considered to be one of the most beautiful places in the city. People associate this place with good wine and good food.The spacious, cozy dining room and the beautiful garden invite you to linger.
Food & Wine Highlights: At Heurigen Zum Martin Sepp you will find seasonal dishes as well as traditional Viennese classics and their modern versions.
Address: Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger, Cobenzlgasse 34, 1190 Vienna   Website: zummartinsepp.at

Winery & Heuriger – Weingut Christ
Winery The Christ Winery can look back on around 400 years of family tradition. The soil, location, and climate on the Bisamberg are perfect for viticulture. The geological diversity is unique and explains the traditionally large diversity of varieties.
Food & Wine Highlights: Rainer Christ has some very old vines. The winery, which was rebuilt in 2005, impresses with its modern and contemporary architecture, which nevertheless does not lack comfort. Classic and seasonal delicacies are served with wines and Heurigen.
Address: Weingut Christ, Amtsstraße 10–14, 1210 Vienna   Website: www.weingut-christ.at

Heuriger Wolff
This traditional wine tavern has been welcoming its guests since 1609. It is open all year round, in winter the guests sit in the cozy, rustic-style interiors, which are heated by wood-heated tiled stoves, in summer of course outside in the wind-protected Heurigenhof with a terraced garden.
Food & Wine Highlights: Viennese home cooking and pastries are served. You should definitely try the “little delicacies” that come from the family recipes of master confectioner Gerhard Wolff.
Address: Der Wiener Heurige Wolff, Rathstrasse 46, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.wienerheuriger.at

Heuriger Wieninger
Leo Wieninger’s family-run winery is considered a cult heuriger. Biodynamic wines are offered exclusively from our own cultivation, and synthetic pesticides are completely avoided.
Food & Wine Highlights: The hot and cold buffet offers a rich selection of organic, vegetarian, seasonal, and international dishes. When the weather is nice, you can sit in the large guest garden.
Address: Heuriger Wieninger, Stammersdorfer Straße 78, 1210 Vienna   Website: heuriger-wieninger.at

Wieninger am Nussberg
Enjoy the view over Vienna, where cold seasonal dishes are served.
Address: Wieninger am Nußberg, Eichelhofweg 125, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.wieninger-am-nussberg.at

Weingut Göbel
At Weingut Göbel you will come across a Heurigen of a different kind. As soon as you enter, you will be struck by the relaxed atmosphere, a cozy arbor surrounded by vine tendrils, a wild, rustic vineyard, and a modern parlor await the guest.
Food & Wine Highlights: Creative home cooking and dishes that you don’t necessarily expect from a heurigen are served. Helmut Krenek values regional cuisine and animal welfare. His dishes are down-to-earth and innovative. The wines from our own cellar come from Hans Peter Göbel, the landlord, who presses the wine himself. The Grüner Veltliner and the Gemischter Satz are very popular with white wine specialists, while the red wines have the reputation of being the best in Vienna.
Address: Stammersdorfer Kellergasse 131, 1210 Vienna   Website: www.weingutgoebel.de

Buschenschank Obermann
Already a hundred years ago, the “world’s best” wines were pressed in Grinzing. Martin Obermann has taken over the business in the fifth generation and cultivates his vineyards organically.When the weather is nice, guests are served in the outdoor dining area, which is decorated with oleanders.
Food & Wine Highlights: An extensive buffet offers warm and cold Heurigen classics. A picnic is organized in the vineyard every Saturday and Sunday in dry weather.
Address: Buschenschank Obermann, Cobenzlgasse 102, 1190 Vienna   Website: weinbauobermann.at

Buschenschank in Residence
Twice a year, in April and August, the “Buschenschank in Residence” by Jutta Ambrostisch and Marco Kalchbrenner takes place for 3 weeks.
Food & Wine Highlights: There is selected food that only comes from friendly producers. Authentic, relaxed, and elegant, Vienna’s first winegrower serves her cold Heurigen buffet together with the wines, all of which come from her own production. Sometimes a friend plays the accordion in the chestnut garden. A trendy address that also attracts hipsters.
Address: Buschenschank in Residence, Langackergasse 5A, 1190 Vienna

Weingut Walter Vienna
Norbert Walter, who was born in Tyrol and grew up on a farm, has been growing wine on the Bisamberg in Vienna since 2004. In addition to Riesling, his wines today also include Grüner Veltliner, Mischen Satz, Chardonnay and Zweigelt. His principles are close-to-nature viticulture and extreme care during the harvest.
Food & Wine Highlights: In the idyllic Buschenschank in the middle of the vineyard, you can enjoy Tyrolean specialties away from the hustle and bustle in addition to Heurigen and first-class organic wines from our own vineyards.
Address: Weingut Walter Vienna, Untere Jungsberggasse 7, 1210 Vienna   Website: weingut-walter-wien.at

Heuriger Bernreiter
At the Heurigen and winery Bernreiter you will experience the typical flair of the Viennese Heuriger.
Food & Wine Highlights: Only self-produced wine is served here and the Heuriger has been awarded the “Topheuriger” seal of approval. The menu changes throughout the year and many seasonal dishes are offered.
Address: Heuriger Bernreiter, Amtsstraße 24-26, 1210 Wien-Jedlersdorf   Website: www.bernreiter.at

Zahel - Weingut & Heuriger
The Heuriger Zahelis one of the oldest wine taverns in Vienna.
Food & Wine Highlights: Here you can enjoy traditional Viennese delicacies from the Heurigen buffet as well as seasonal specialties from the á la carte kitchen. The winery is easily accessible by bus and tram and is definitely worth a visit. Address: Weingut & Heuriger Zahel, Maurer Hauptplatz 9, 1230, Vienna   Website: www.zahel.at

Heuriger Kierlinger
At the Kierlinger, we strive to preserve the originality of the Viennese Heuriger and its guests To let sociability and Viennese coziness feel. The idyllic inner courtyard, through which one enters the guest garden, creates a cozy atmosphere.
Food & Wine Highlights: The culinary delights are prepared here according to recipes that have been passed down for generations.
Address: Kierlinger, Kahlenbergerstraße 20, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.kierlinger.at

Weingut Wailand
Dr. Gerog Wailand, co-publisher of a business magazine and Krone editor-in-chief, got into viticulture as a career changer in 1996 and founded his winery Wailand. The small Heurige high up on the Nussberg offers a spectacular view over Vienna.
Food & Wine Highlights: Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, and Zweigelt are the main varieties of the five hectares cultivated. Cold Heurigen specialties are served at the buffet.
Address: Weingut Wailand, Kahlenberger Straße/corner of Heinz-Werner-Schimanko-Weg, 1190 Vienna
Website: www.wailandwein.at

Weinhof Zimmermann
Visit the traditional, family-run Weinhof Zimmermann and enjoy the natural garden in the middle of the Viennese vineyards in the 19th district in Döbling.
Food & Wine Highlights: Delicious Austrian cuisine! Warm and cold dishes for every taste await you at the buffet.
Address: Weinhof Zimmermann GmbH, Mitterwurzergasse 20, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.weinhof-zimmermann.at

BEST TRADITIONAL HEURIGER IN VIENNA

Heuriger Sirbu
Monday to Saturday from 4:00 p.m. you will be welcomed with wine and delicacies at the Heurigen Sirbu. A romantic bench with a fantastic view over Vienna and the vineyards also makes the Sirbu a good place to go for a date – but no matter with whoml; it’s always nice there.
Food & Wine Highlights: Cold Heurigen specialties are served at the buffet. Meat dishes from organic farms, natural food, homemade pastries, and award-winning bottled wines, are also available by the glass.
Address: Heurigen Sribu, Kahlenberger Strasse 210, 1190 Vienna   Website: www.sirbu.at

Weinbau Hermann
The Winbau Hermann is located on the outskirts of the city, in the middle of the Ottakringer vineyards Weinbau. When the sun is shining, you can sit under the arbors and when the weather is bad, the glazed veranda invites you to linger.
Food & Wine Highlights: Roast caraway is advertised as a house specialty, but the homemade spreads and sweet delicacies are also worth seeing.
Address: Johann-Staud-Straße 51, 1160 Vienna   Phone: +43 (0) 1 914 81 61
Website: www.weinbau-herrmann.com

BEST CITY HEURIGER IN VIENNA

Weinstube Josefstadt
In the middle of the 8th district is the small but fine Weinstube Josefstadt with a beautiful courtyard garden.
Food & Wine Highlights: Here you will find inexpensive Heurigen cuisine as well as a Heurigen buffet with traditional delicacies. Only Austrian bottled wines are served and a reservation is recommended, as the Heurigen is very popular. Address: Weinstube Josefstadt, Piaristengasse 27, 1080 Vienna   Website: www.weinstube-josefstadt.at

Zwölf Apostelkeller
Those who don’t necessarily want to leave the city center are in good hands in the Zwölf Apostelkeller in the 1st district with its Heurigen atmosphere.
Food & Wine Highlights: Traditional Viennese cuisine and a wide variety of wines attract a mixed crowd here. The specialty is the classic Fiaker goulash and unique in combination with the right beer.
Address: Zwölf Apostelkeller, Sonnenfelsgasse 3, 1010 Vienna   Website: www.zwoelf-apostelkeller.at

Hallstatt

One of Rick Steves favourite places in Austria is a popular site for Austrian and German tourists but not so much for others. About a one hour drive south-east of Salzburg, it is a longer trip by rail: first go from Salzburg or Linz to Attnang-Puchhelm, then south to Hallstatt.

Starting out

A place for all things on travel to Austria. Rick Steves has lots of information on the normal sites and those out of the way, less touristy spots.